Mackle's best: lush, exotic, comforting
by Elliot Mackle

Familiarity breeds comfort as often as it does contempt. for every new wonder under the sun, we must put aside, at least for a moment -- or a meal -- the pleasures of the known.

Restaurants, like companions, often grow more appealing and valuable as we discover their charms, quirks and secrets.

Like friendships, they evolve, adding depth, testing limits and growing more assured.

Our best old restaurant friends assiduously offer novelties along with more conventional stock of culinary tricks and long-running wonders. Chefs,their guiding spirits, spark the new from the flames of tradition.

Among many choices, the 10 restaurants listed below, in order of merit, are the best in the metro area.

Thai Chilli

After several of the chef's palace hotel-style specialties wowed Asian hotness fans at other venue, he and his family opened their own place in a strip center near Emory University. Old hands know that excellence is most often found in this daily specials and in the appetizer and chef's special sections of the menu. And that's OK; the coveted stars at Michelin-rated restaurants refer primarily to the dishes mentioned in the guide. Stick to those listed below and all should be well.

Dream menu for four to share: Namsod (minced pork with peanuts, lime juice, whole dried red chile pods, onion and cabbage-leaf wrappers); squid salad; salmon green curry with zucchini and carrots; spicy basil lamb chops; shrimp masaman curry with avocados and cashew nuts; catfish with basil, Thai eggplant and fresh peppercorn sauce; steamed rice. $

Chef: Robert Khankiew. Reservations and major credit cards accepted. Smoking not permitted; Casual. Lunch Tuesdays-Fridays; dinner Tuesdays-Sundays. Briarcliff Road N.E., at LaVista Road. 315-6750.

The Atlanta Journal - Constitution, Dining Guide, Top 10 Restaurants